Update 1 - batteries

PaulWay's picture

I've now got a few ideas of where I want to head and thought I'd write them up.

My basic requirement is to be able to do 100KM/hr so I can drive anywhere in Canberra without being a hazard to traffic, and to be able to drive for at least an hour at 80KM/hr.

For a motor I'm looking at an EnerTrac MHM-602 Hub Motor for the motorbike.  This saves having a gearbox, chain, clutch and a lot of other paraphernalia, which cuts down on weight, number of things to go wrong, and gives me more space in the engine bay.  This motor will do 100KM/hr at 96V and draw 50A while doing so with a normal bike and rider.

The motor controller I'm thinking of is a Kelly KBL12401I.  It will go up to 120V, can do regenerative braking in any one of three modes, can cope with up to 400A over one minute and 200A over five, and has an RS-232 connection to allow it to be programmed and get statistics.

Now the big question is what size of cells and how many do I get to make up the battery.  There are several factors to consider here:

  • The larger the amp-hour size of the cells, the longer they last but the larger and heavier they are and the more they cost.
  • Each cell goes from 3.2 to 3.5 volts in regular operation and can go as high as 4.8V and as low as 2.5.  Beyond that you have cooked your cell.
  • The larger the cumulative battery voltage, the less current it needs to supply to achieve a particular amount of power.  Since resistance is proportional to the square of the current, at higher voltage smaller cables can supply a larger amount of power without heating up too much.
  • The batteries have to fit in the space available in the engine bay and be carried by the bike frame and motor.  The fairings may provide more or less space in some areas.  The more weight higher up on the frame, the more likely the bike is to overbalance.  The batteries should also be mounted more or less upright.
  • Cells are also rated in 'C' - which is related to the amount of amps they can instantaneously deliver as a fraction of the cell's capacity.  A 100Ah cell that's rated at 1C is capable of delivering 100A - a 50Ah cell rated at 2C can deliver the same current but for half as long.
  • A cell might be rated at 100Ah but that doesn't mean that you can draw 100 amps from it for an hour.  If you do that you will probably kill it.  Planning the battery capacity therefore needs to be conservative.

That's a lot of variables to juggle.
To supply 96V from cells at 3.2V each I need 30 cells.  For 100Ah Thunder Sky cells weighing 3.3Kg each this works out at just under 100Kg.  This is probably quite a bit more than the weight of the engine, fuel tank, exhaust, carburettor and so forth.  So finding a bike frame that will take the weight, can take it low down, and will still be comfortable and fun to ride is going to be the next challenge.

Comments

Anonymous's picture

Hi Im from adelaide and am

Hi Im from adelaide and am also interested in doing something along the lines of what you are doing. I have an FZR 250 frame (well a whole bike but I plan to sell the other bits for scrap). Have you ordered the Enertrac yet? if so how much did it cost? Have you figured out what frame you are going to use yet? Im thinking around a 110V 100Ah pack, in your investigations have you gotten any indications as to how much this may cost? Any idea what the controller would cost? If you can help out at all itd be appreciated. Cheers Ryan
Anonymous's picture

My TZR 250 EV project

Paul thanks for your comments on my blog. Mark from enertrac says he uses the KBL12401I as well with no problems (but he is trying to sell us stuff) but I am thinking of going for the KBL14401I but it still only has the same ratings as 12401I just more volatage. The hub motor is designed for a bike of under 400 pounds so thats why I went for the aluminium 250 frame but I am struggling to fit the size of batteries that will give me the range I want. My bike was 151 kg wet with ICE and now just the bare frame is 54 kg. Add the 25kg hub motor (no tyre) and 100 kg of batteries, battery box, fairings, DC/DC converter, controller etc and the bike will end up being an extra 30 kg (excluding the hub motor) heavier (read stain on the frame). I am excluding the hub motor as it carries its own weight. I ride a scooter on the freeway to work and I find you need more than 100kmh if you want to stay with the traffic. ON the MHM602 I went for the intergrated disc brake and 2 torque arms (one each side) the freight was almost $400 AUD so add that to the price and you are at $1800 AUD. I went for the hub motor so I would have extra room for batteries in the frame. On my bike - I have to replace a worn out front disk $250 (its a light alloy one of a ducatti) and the fork leg that carries the brake needs new bushes $200 approx. plus $90 dollars of back supension linkage bearings (I'm going to try needle roller bearings instead of yamaha ones at $500) so my frame has cost me $860 already. Also I need to buy a tyre $165 for the hub motor. I have a lathe so I can make my own axle spacers for the motor but if you don't you may need to supply an acurate measurment of the swing are inside width so he can make them for you. As for batteries I'm looking at Sky energy (not decided yet) they are a little lighter than thunder sky and are 3.4 volts instead of 3.2 volts. At the moment I am trying to contact VASS engineers to see what they will pass so I can get definitive directions on what I can do. Watch my blog for the results. I am expecting the hub motor will also need to get the engineers aproval as well. I has asked mark for engineering specs so again watch my blog for results. for anyone reading this my blog is http://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=1838 regards Glenn Glenn